travel

Nice, Antibe, and Highgate: Illustrations and Kosher Observations

Sur la plage, Nice, France, watercolor and ink.
This past spring I had the pleasure of traveling to Nice, France. We also visited Antibes, a neighboring city, also with a medieval section. One day we traveled north on a train to a medieval village called La Brigue. It was quite an adventure. I did some watercolor illustrations of some of the places that we visited.

Someone asked: so why did you pick Nice? I answered: kosher food. There is kosher food in Nice. Not much in Dublin. And off to Nice we went. But the best food was really in Antibes. It’s a short train ride from Nice, so get used to taking trains! You can see a lot that way. Buy a day pass for the train, so you can get off and get back on again all day long.

Nice Opera House, watercolor and ink
A wonderful part of the Nice is the market in the old city. A large section is devoted to flowers. Vegetables and fruit are available in abundance. I bought strawberries (fresh and in season), pomegranate, grapefruit, an apple, a red onion, and a lemon. I didn’t get a chance to paint the market. However, since it is advertised that it opened at 6 am, but the vendors are still setting up at that time, I sketched the Opera House nearby in ink. Later I added watercolor.

We took a wonderful walking tour of the old city of Nice. You end up on the hill overlooking the city … breathtaking. The walking tours are free. Sign up online in advance. It is recommended to pay the tour guide an amount at the end. Our tour guide, Dinara Mukh, was fabulous. Here’s her website for women on imbalanced hormones: https://www.dinaramukh.com/

Eating kosher in Nice is not hard. Le Kineret and La Makolet are two delightful finds on Avenue Georges Clémenceau. Le Kineret is a bakery (boulangerie) and restaurant with wonderful breakfast food (we didn’t get a chance to eat other meals there). If you need food for Shabbat, you can place an order at Le Kineret on a Thursday. Pick up is Friday morning. Delicious! La Makolet had wine, cheese, and other kosher treats. We went to a lovely Asian Fusion restaurant called Bozen.

If you are planning to be in Nice on a Friday night, you can reserve online in advance to eat at Chabad. The food is traditional chicken with many salad dishes. I recommend giving a nice donation to Chabad if you choose to eat there.

food at Berbeche restaurant, Antibes, France
food at Berbeche restaurant, Antibes, France

Restaurants in Antibes: I recommend Berbeche. It is a few buildings down from the beach in Juan-Le-Pins. When I asked the waiter if I should get the salad or the vegetables, he replied in accented English: “salad is for rabbits.” I got the vegetables. My daughter liked them. I found them a bit too saucy. But I absolutely loved my lamp chops. My daughter loved her steak with truffles. We both give the restaurant a high rating. There was some delicious looking salami inside the restaurant. I was tempted to order some, but in addition to having to carry it back, I was not sure what 36 euro meant. Does that mean per pound? per liter? per something else? A confused tourist, I went without. This time. There is another kosher restaurant on the beach called DiamanThe’K. I ordered delicious lamb chops, and before the main course was served, we got some nice salads. The salad with the meal was not quite as good.

La Brigue, view of bridge and medieval village, France, watercolor
We took a trip one day via train to the mountains north of Nice. We stopped in a lovely medieval village called La Brigue. Just so you know, there is only one track in La Brigue. You wait at the same spot that you got off for the train back to Nice.

Highgate, North London, watercolor and ink
I did not fly directly to Nice. From the U.S. it costs thousands of dollars to fly into Nice. So I flew to London Heathrow first. On the way I visited Highgate. As I was drawing the compelling architecture of Highgate, an elder resident asked me if I was part of the group that was redesigning the square where I sat. She wanted more trees in particular. I thought she should ask for more seating. In any case, I am including my illustration of Highgate in my Nice, France post.